Iguana - Housing

What type of cage does my iguana require?

Smaller juvenile pets often do well in a 10-or-20-gallon aquarium. As your iguana grows, he must be moved to more comfortable enclosures. These can often be purchased or built by the pet owner. They need to be tall (as iguanas like to climb) and should be large enough for a full-size adult (often up to 8 foot long). The vivarium should contain climbing materials, a heat source and ultra-violet light sources within 12 inches of the basking spot. The iguana need not spend all day in the vivarium but may have several hours activity within a room, as long as they are returned to the heated enclosure within a few hours.

Does my iguana need bedding in his cage?

Substrate, or bedding material, should be easy to clean and nontoxic to the iguana. Paper (including newspaper) is particularly recommended.

Alfalfa pellets can also be used for bedding and are often eaten by the iguana, which is acceptable. AVOID sand, gravel, wood shavings, and cat litter, as these are not only difficult to clean but can cause impactions (gut blockage) if eaten on purpose or accidentally should the food become covered by these substrates.

What else do I need in the cage?

Natural branches are enjoyed by the iguana. Make sure they are secure and won't fall onto the lizard and injure it and are strong enough to withstand the iguana climbing and basking on them. Ideally, the branch should slope from the bottom of the enclosure to the top and end near a heat and ultra-violet source so the iguana can bask. Rocks (large ones) in the cage also allow for basking. A hiding place is appreciated by all reptiles and should be available. This may be accomplished by means of artificial foliage. A secure box may also be appreciated (especially by smaller individuals)

A heat source is necessary for all reptiles, which are cold-blooded and need a range of temperatures to regulate their internal body temperature. Ideally, the cage should be set up so that a heat gradient is established, with one area of the tank warmer than the other end. In this way, the iguana can move around its environment and warm or cool itself as needed. Purchase two thermometers and place one at the cooler end of the cage and one at the warmer end near the heat source. The cooler end of the cage should be approximately 22-24°C , while the warmer end should be 30-32°C temperatures may be reduced by 5°C at night.

Overhead heat sources should be used rather than heat mats or hot rocks. These should be shielded by a metal cage to prevent burning and should not be too close to the reptile. Ceramic heaters or combined ultra-violet/ heat lamps are ideal.

What about UV Light?

UV light is necessary to provide vitamin D-3. Failure to provide UV light can predispose your iguana to metabolic bone disease, a common condition of pet iguanas.

The UV light should emit light in the UV-B range (290-320 nanometers). There are now many full-spectrum UV emitters available - UV-B 5.0 are ideal. The UV output of these lights decreases with age; they should be replaced every six months. For UV light to work, it must reach the pet in an unfiltered form, which means that you must make sure there is no glass or plastic interposed between the pet and the light. Finally, the light should be within 6-12 inches from the iguana in order for the pet to receive any benefit.